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Thread: ECU codes

  1. #1
    Inactive Member 93sidelsolvtec's Avatar
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    Ok i have been trying to figure this out for 3 weeks now. I understand how to check the codes on my ecu and i know what they mean but i dont understand how to fix iI was told the connector is under the dash by the ECU. It has 2 wires , ! Black with a white line and the other is red with a black line on it. Ok I have found 2 plugs and they have a green with white line and brown with silver strips in 1 plug and a green with white line and a light blue with silver strips in the other plug.
    When i jump the smaller plug i turn the key to "on" and all I get is a long light. this would mean code 10 i believe. Code 10 is IAT sensor. I have taken it out on switched a few around and still nothing. After switching i have even removed the battery cables and tried again and again. Please let me know what im doing wrong or at least let me know what plug and colors you have.

  2. #2
    Inactive Member Geo VP's Avatar
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    Here's a How-To I wrote for another message board on this, hope it helps you out on this.

    <font size="4">How To - Check for ECU Error Codes</font>

    First you need to find the Service Check Connector. It will be above the ECU in a rubber connector cover. Picture below.

    ecucheckplug8vx

    NOTE: Use the two pin connector, not the three pin one. (The blue connector one shown in this picture).

    1- Connect the Service Connector terminals with a jumper wire.
    2- Turn on the ignition switch to the first position, not the run position. Light will come on for about 2 seconds like normal then go off, then will flash the error code.
    3- Note the diagnostic code by the length and number of blinks. It can indicate more then one code by blinking separate codes one after the other with a short pause between them.
    4- Codes 1-9 are short blinks only, 10-43 are long blinks first then short blinks. Note: Codes 10, 20, 30 and 40 will have long blinks only.
    5- The number of long blinks tell the first digit, short blinks the second digit.
    6- After getting the codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper wire and replace the connector back in it's rubber cover.
    7- To reset the ECU you need to remove the 7.5A back up fuse in the underhood fuse box for 10 seconds.

    NOTE: Removing this fuse will reset your radio and clock memory, you have been warned.

    If you don't have an error code showing (engine check light on) when driving and you are doing this check it will only come on for 2 seconds then go off and not come back on.
    Also if you've had the light come on then go off after shutting the car off and not coming on again, it will save/show this error code (it is usually caused by an intermittent failure. Nothing to worry about unless it stays on).

    <font size="4">ECU Codes for OBDI and OBD II only:</font>

    0 Engine Control Module (ECM) (MIL never comes on, even for 2 sec. after ignition is turned on, also see NOTES)
    1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
    2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
    3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
    4 CKP - crank position sensor
    5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
    6 ECT - water temperature sensor
    7 TPS - throttle position sensor
    8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
    9 CYP - cylinder sensor
    10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
    12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
    13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
    14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
    15 Ignition output signal
    16 Fuel injectors
    17 VSS - speed sensor
    19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
    20 Electrical load detector (*1)
    21 VTEC spool solenoid valve (*2)
    22 VTEC pressure valve (*2)
    23 Knock sensor (*3)
    30 Automatic transmission A signal
    31 Automatic transmission B signal
    36 Traction Control (found on JDM ecu's)
    41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
    43 Fuel supply system
    45 Fuel system too rich or lean
    48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
    54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
    58 TDC sensor #2
    61 Primary oxygen sensor
    63 Secondary oxygen sensor
    65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
    71 random misfire cylinder 1
    72 random misfire cylinder 2
    73 random misfire cylinder 3
    74 random misfire cylinder 4

    *1 Except Canada
    *2 D16Z6, B16A3 engine
    *3 B16A3 engine

    Should cover all/most codes for OB1
    Notes:
    1-If codes other then these listed above are indicated, verify the code. If the code indicated is not listed above replace the ECU.
    2-The MIL may come on indicating a system problem when in fact there is a poor or intermittent electrical connection.
    3-The MIL does not come on when there is a problem with the Electrical Load Detector (ELD) circuit. However it will indicate a code when the Service Check Connector is jumped, except Canada.

    Geo
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    <font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ October 22, 2005 12:33 PM: Message edited by: Geo VP ]</font>

  3. #3
    Inactive Member A.Oster's Avatar
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    WOW! awesome write up... makes me want to try it just o see what happens! [img]smile.gif[/img]

  4. #4
    Inactive Member Geo VP's Avatar
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    Originally posted by A.Oster:
    WOW! awesome write up... makes me want to try it just o see what happens! [img]smile.gif[/img]
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well Alex I've always enjoyed doing research and technical writing, as I have a engineering background. I guess I should have looked into research/technical writing as a career then what I what I do for a living now working for the school district. Life is funny like that, in where you end up and doing for a living.

    Geo
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  5. #5
    Inactive Member 93sidelsolvtec's Avatar
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    Ok my plug looks just like the one in the picture above execpt mine has only 2 wires in each plug. I have ran the codes as stated above and came up with the same code. One long blink then a long pause and another long blink. This goes on forever. I have rermoved the fuse and reset the ecu. I know i had the correct one because i lost my clock memory. Maybe, just maybe i might have been switching the wrong sensor but I doubt it. The IAT sensor is which one????? Im thinking its the small white sensor thats held in by 2 screws in the back of the manifold towards the bottom right. Is this correct?

  6. #6
    Inactive Member Geo VP's Avatar
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    A code #10 is for the IAT sensor (Grn/Wht and Red/Yel wires) on the back of the manifold. Here's the procedure to to check it:

    1- Reset the ECU and start the engine.
    2-Is the MIL back on? No intermittent failure, check the connector at the right shock tower for loose connections, and at the sensor and ECU.
    3-Yes, turn off engine and disconnect the 2 pin connector for IAT.
    4-Measure the resistance between the two terminals on the IAT sensor.
    5-Is there 0.4-4.0 k ohms.
    6-No, replace the sensor.
    7-Turn the ignition switch on and measure the voltage between the Red/Yel and body ground.
    8-Is there approx. 5 volts? If yes measure voltage between the Red/Yel (+) and Grn/Wht(-). Is there approx. 5 volts. No repair open/short in Grn/Wht between sensor and ECU. If yes replace ECU and recheck for engine check light. If ok replace ECU.
    9-Your suppose to use a test harness for this part, but you can just jump the pins on the ECU the same way.
    10-Turn ignition on, measure voltage between D15 (+) and D22(-).
    11-Is there 5 volts. No repair open/short in Red/Yel wire between ECU and Sensor.
    12-No, replace ECU.

    Done.

    Geo
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  7. #7
    Inactive Member 93sidelsolvtec's Avatar
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    well ladies and gents sensor was bad replaced and reset ecu now its all good no more engine probs.now i have to put the GSR radiator in and i will be driving my car.

  8. #8
    Inactive Member yokohamatyre's Avatar
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    Nah technical writing is one of those jobs that are undervalued and underappreciated. In the business world, no one reads the frickin manual...how do i know...cause im a tech writer...

    -t-

    Originally posted by Geo VP:
    </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by A.Oster:
    WOW! awesome write up... makes me want to try it just o see what happens! [img]smile.gif[/img]
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well Alex I've always enjoyed doing research and technical writing, as I have a engineering background. I guess I should have looked into research/technical writing as a career then what I what I do for a living now working for the school district. Life is funny like that, in where you end up and doing for a living.

    Geo
    President
    Team Sol of Washington

    banner38qx
    </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

  9. #9
    Inactive Member Geo VP's Avatar
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    Originally posted by yokohamatyre:
    [QB]Nah technical writing is one of those jobs that are undervalued and underappreciated. In the business world, no one reads the frickin manual...how do i know...cause im a tech writer...

    -t-
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Then I'm not worthy!!!!

    10921115jb

    Geo
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    Team Sol of Washington

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